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When compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred venues. But, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states the proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small shop achieving such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary triumph.